|MODEL||TOTAL (G)||FLY MATERIAL|
* WEIGHT INCLUDES INNER, FLY, POLES AND FOUR PEGS.
- Flysheet: 70 denier polyester 1500 mm
- Floor: 70 denier polyester floor with 5000 mm watertight bathtub construction. High side walls prevent splash back
- Inner: full nylon inner with DWR treatment for better insulation and protection from condensation
- Factory seam sealed
- Durable alloy poles are light, strong and reliable
- Tuck away guy ropes
- Twin exhaust vents
- Easy to use, oversized zippers
- Forged alloy pegs
Goondie tents are easy to pitch, as can be seen in this video.
When choosing a tent site, ideally find a position that is:
- protected from strong winds
- flat and level
- away from trees which may drop debris and limbs
- clear of any sharp rocks or debris that could damage the tent floor
- not in a low-lying area adjacent to a watercourse or where water may pool
- clear of overhead electrical cables: take care when assembling tent poles
Don’t be Luke Skywalker with his light sabre! Flicking the pole up to snap it all together is great fun, but it damages the shock cord and fractures the segments. Take time and put the segments together with care.
Keep sand and grit out of the pole segments. If they do get dirty, clean them out with water and let them dry thoroughly before storage.
Keep them fully open or fully shut, but don’t go merrily tripping in and out a half-open door. It’s a great way to bust an ankle, and a zip! Although we use high-quality parts, the teeth can still be damaged if a zip is stressed when only partially done up.
That harsh Australian sun…
All synthetic fabrics are degraded by the sun’s rays. Avoid leaving your tent in direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
First, give the fly and the inner of your tent a good shake: you’ll be amazed (and disgusted) at the bits and pieces you’ve been carrying around! Then use a soft-bristled brush to remove any excess dirt from the poles, pegs, inner and fly.
Run your bath with enough warm–hot water to cover your tent, dissolving in a natural, mild, non-detergent soap. (Depending on the size of your bath and tent, you may want to do the fly and inner separately.)
Soak your tent for some time, then brush it to remove any residual dirt. Rinse the tent until the water runs clear – it may take a while… If you really must use a washing machine, make sure it is front loading.
Wash the poles inside and out too, as well as the pegs. But the fun really starts once you’ve finished with the tent: it’s time to scrub the bath!
Once the tent is clean, hang it on the clothes line to dry. Drying time will depend on the weather: it may take several hours in summer, or a day or two in winter. Make sure all components (including the insides of the poles) are completely dry before storing. Lubricate zips with a silicon lubricant suitable for use on fabrics.
Try to avoid getting sand in the tent. It’s pretty impossible if you’re near the beach, but do try! The abrasive grains will cause increased wear to zips, poles and fabric, so clean out any sand before putting the tent away. Remove sand from zips with a small, stiff brush – an old toothbrush is perfect.
You know that musty, old-sock smell of a towel that’s been damp for too long? If you put your tent away when damp, it quickly attains a similar fruity aroma, and then the fabric and performance will start to degrade.
In short, mould and mildew on your tent are not ideal… After every trip, hang your tent up (or pitch it – your call) in a warm, dry and preferably shady area until it is completely dry. Make sure all pegs and poles are dry and clean before storage.
It is best to store your tent loose in a cardboard box or mesh storage bag to increase air flow around the fabrics.