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The Goondie 2 has two doors and two vestibules, so there’s no need to play tent Twister. The comfortable, freestanding design is kept stable in nasty conditions by strong poles with a flexible hub, stash-away guy lines and good quality YKK zippers.
- 15 denier fly and mesh inner – Lightweight and high-performance, this tent is designed for trips in warmer climates.
- 15 denier fly and nylon inner – The nylon inner gives added warmth and wind protection, extending the range of this lightweight, high-performance tent to three-season use.
- 30 denier fly and mesh inner – The mesh inner allows maximum ventilation, while the 30 denier polyester flysheet gives durability in the field. And it still doesn’t weigh much, especially when split between two bushwalkers.
- 30 denier fly and nylon inner – A sanctuary for two walkers. Suitable for four-season use, this model provides a warm, dry and comfortable home on the range.
|MODEL||WEIGHT (G)||FLY MATERIAL|
|Goondie 2: 15D – NYLON INNER||1835||15D Nylon Sil/PU|
|Goondie 2: 15D – MESH INNER||1675||15D Nylon Sil/PU|
|Goondie 2: 15D – FAST AND LIGHT#||1150||15D Nylon Sil/PU|
|Goondie 2: 30D – NYLON INNER||2055||30D Polyester Sil/PU|
|Goondie 2: 30D – MESH INNER||1895||30D Polyester Sil/PU|
|Goondie 2: 30D – FAST AND LIGHT#||1290||30D Polyester Sil/PU|
|Goondie 2: 3D FOOTPRINT||340||70D Polyester PU|
* WEIGHT INCLUDES FLY, INNER POLES, FOUR PEGS AND ALL GUY ROPES.
# FAST AND LIGHT MODE REQUIRES FLY, POLES, 3D FOOTPRINT AND TWO PEGS.
There are two fly choices for most of our tents. Both options have a silicone finish and fully factory seam sealed.
15D: spiffy green flies made from ultra light 15-denier silicone treated nylon, ideally suited to three-season bush walking for the weight conscious.
30D: made from slightly heavier and more durable 30-denier polyester. These gorgeous numbers are not only easy to spot, they have a higher UV resistance, making them better suited for four season use.
There are also two inner options for most tents.
Nylon: the full, breathable nylon inner has DWR treatment for better insulation and protection from condensation. Suitable for year-round use.
Mesh: this inner is made mostly from mesh, allowing fantastic breathability and air flow. It is perfect for warmer, more humid conditions. (It is also a bit lighter than the nylon alternative.)
Floors and 3D footprints
The floor used in our tent range is tough enough to stand up to life in the bush without needing a footprint underneath.
Mesh Inner: this inner has a bathtub floor (75-denier, 5000 millimetre, PU-coated HT nylon) and nylon walls, with the top half made from fine mesh. This allows wonderful airflow and reduces condensation – perfect for warmer, humid conditions. (It is also a bit lighter than the nylon alternative.)
Nylon Inner: the breathable nylon inner has DWR treatment for better insulation and protection from condensation, combined with a tough bathtub floor (100-denier, 5000 millimetre, PU-coated HT nylon). It is designed for year-round use.
All our poles are supplied by DAC, the industry leader. The poles are light, strong and reliable, made using a new environmentally friendly anodising process.
Our forged alloy pegs are made using the same method as rockclimbing hardware – perhaps a little overengineered? Despite their strength, they’re easy to push in. What else do you want?
Goondie tents are easy to pitch, as can be seen in this video.
When choosing a tent site, ideally find a position that is:
- protected from strong winds
- flat and level
- away from trees which may drop debris and limbs
- clear of any sharp rocks or debris that could damage the tent floor
- not in a low-lying area adjacent to a watercourse or where water may pool
- clear of overhead electrical cables: take care when assembling tent poles
Don’t be Luke Skywalker with his light sabre! Flicking the pole up to snap it all together is great fun, but it damages the shock cord and fractures the segments. Take time and put the segments together with care.
Keep sand and grit out of the pole segments. If they do get dirty, clean them out with water and let them dry thoroughly before storage.
Keep them fully open or fully shut, but don’t go merrily tripping in and out a half-open door. It’s a great way to bust an ankle, and a zip! Although we use high-quality parts, the teeth can still be damaged if a zip is stressed when only partially done up.
That harsh Australian sun…
All synthetic fabrics are degraded by the sun’s rays. Avoid leaving your tent in direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
First, give the fly and the inner of your tent a good shake: you’ll be amazed (and disgusted) at the bits and pieces you’ve been carrying around! Then use a soft-bristled brush to remove any excess dirt from the poles, pegs, inner and fly.
Run your bath with enough warm–hot water to cover your tent, dissolving in a natural, mild, non-detergent soap. (Depending on the size of your bath and tent, you may want to do the fly and inner separately.)
Soak your tent for some time, then brush it to remove any residual dirt. Rinse the tent until the water runs clear – it may take a while… If you really must use a washing machine, make sure it is front loading.
Wash the poles inside and out too, as well as the pegs. But the fun really starts once you’ve finished with the tent: it’s time to scrub the bath!
Once the tent is clean, hang it on the clothes line to dry. Drying time will depend on the weather: it may take several hours in summer, or a day or two in winter. Make sure all components (including the insides of the poles) are completely dry before storing. Lubricate zips with a silicon lubricant suitable for use on fabrics.
Try to avoid getting sand in the tent. It’s pretty impossible if you’re near the beach, but do try! The abrasive grains will cause increased wear to zips, poles and fabric, so clean out any sand before putting the tent away. Remove sand from zips with a small, stiff brush – an old toothbrush is perfect.
You know that musty, old-sock smell of a towel that’s been damp for too long? If you put your tent away when damp, it quickly attains a similar fruity aroma, and then the fabric and performance will start to degrade.
In short, mould and mildew on your tent are not ideal… After every trip, hang your tent up (or pitch it – your call) in a warm, dry and preferably shady area until it is completely dry. Make sure all pegs and poles are dry and clean before storage.
It is best to store your tent loose in a cardboard box or mesh storage bag to increase air flow around the fabrics.