Goondie 1

$79.00$639.00

Made for the solo hiker, Goondie 1 breaks the lightweight mould by offering comfort and practicality without a massive weight penalty. There is room to sit up and read or get dressed, a single door for entry and a storage hatch for your stove or boots.

Model variations:

  • 15 denier fly and mesh inner – This model is lightweight for three-season use. The mesh inner allows maximum ventilation whilst the fly is small, light and shakes almost dry.
  • 15 denier fly and nylon inner – The full nylon inner adds warmth and wind protection, making this an excellent choice for solo hikers on extended solo missions below the snowline.
  • 30 denier fly and mesh inner – This tent provides a solo hiker with lightweight performance, excellent ventilation and durability. The 30 denier polyester fly has a long field life while the mesh inner provides maximum ventilation.
  • 30 denier fly and nylon inner – The solo hiker’s sanctuary. When the weather closes in in the mountains, this tent will keep you warm, dry and comfortable.
Model Specs > Clear
SKU: GOONDIE1 Category:

MODEL WEIGHT (G) FLY MATERIAL
Goondie 1: 15D – NYLON INNER 1570 15D Nylon Sil/PU
Goondie 1: 15D – MESH INNER 1430 15D Nylon Sil/PU
Goondie 1: 15D – FAST AND LIGHT# 1150 15D Nylon Sil/PU
Goondie 1: 30D – NYLON INNER 1730 30D Polyester Sil/PU
Goondie 1: 30D – MESH INNER 1595 30D Polyester Sil/PU
Goondie 1: 30D – FAST AND LIGHT# 1290 30D Polyester Sil/PU
Goondie 1: 3D FOOTPRINT 300 70D Polyester PU

* WEIGHT INCLUDES FLY, INNER POLES, FOUR PEGS AND ALL GUY ROPES.
# FAST AND LIGHT MODE REQUIRES FLY, POLES, 3D FOOTPRINT AND TWO PEGS.

Flies

There are two choices of flies for most tents. Both options are finished with silicone and polyurethane coatings and fully seam sealed in the factory.

15D: spiffy green flies made from ultralight, 15-denier nylon, ideally suited to three-season bushwalking for the weight conscious.

30D: made from a slightly heavier and more durable 30-denier polyester. These gorgeous orange numbers are not only easier to spot, they have higher UV resistance, making them better suited to four-season use.

Inners

There are also two inner options for most tents.

Nylon: the full, breathable nylon inner has DWR treatment for better insulation and protection from condensation. Suitable for year-round use.

Mesh: this inner is made mostly from mesh, allowing fantastic breathability and air flow. It is perfect for warmer, more humid conditions. (It is also a bit lighter than the nylon alternative.)

Floors and 3D footprints

The floor used in our tent range is tough enough to stand up to life in the bush without needing a footprint underneath. Made from 100-denier, 5000 millimetre, PU-coated HT nylon, the bathtub construction is watertight, with high side walls to prevent splash back.

The optional 3D footprint is made from the same material, designed to be used with the fly of a 4Midable, Goondie 1, 2 or 3 for a light-and-fast set up.

Poles

All our poles are supplied by DAC, the industry leader. The poles are light, strong and reliable, made using a new environmentally friendly anodising process.

Pegs

Our forged alloy pegs are made using the same method as rockclimbing hardware – perhaps a little overengineered? Despite their strength, they’re easy to push in. What else do you want?

Pitching

Goondie tents are easy to pitch, as can be seen in this video.

When choosing a tent site, ideally find a position that is:

  • protected from strong winds
  • flat and level
  • away from trees which may drop debris and limbs
  • clear of any sharp rocks or debris that could damage the tent floor
  • not in a low-lying area adjacent to a watercourse or where water may pool
  • clear of overhead electrical cables: take care when assembling tent poles

Don’t be Luke Skywalker with his light sabre! Flicking the pole up to snap it all together is great fun, but it damages the shock cord and fractures the segments. Take time and put the segments together with care.

Keep sand and grit out of the pole segments. If they do get dirty, clean them out with water and let them dry thoroughly before storage.

Zips

Keep them fully open or fully shut, but don’t go merrily tripping in and out a half-open door. It’s a great way to bust an ankle, and a zip! Although we use high-quality parts, the teeth can still be damaged if a zip is stressed when only partially done up.

That harsh Australian sun…

All synthetic fabrics are degraded by the sun’s rays. Avoid leaving your tent in direct sunlight for extended periods of time.

Cleaning

First, give the fly and the inner of your tent a good shake: you’ll be amazed (and disgusted) at the bits and pieces you’ve been carrying around! Then use a soft-bristled brush to remove any excess dirt from the poles, pegs, inner and fly.

Run your bath with enough warm–hot water to cover your tent, dissolving in a natural, mild, non-detergent soap. (Depending on the size of your bath and tent, you may want to do the fly and inner separately.)

Soak your tent for some time, then brush it to remove any residual dirt. Rinse the tent until the water runs clear – it may take a while… If you really must use a washing machine, make sure it is front loading.

Wash the poles inside and out too, as well as the pegs. But the fun really starts once you’ve finished with the tent: it’s time to scrub the bath!

Once the tent is clean, hang it on the clothes line to dry. Drying time will depend on the weather: it may take several hours in summer, or a day or two in winter. Make sure all components (including the insides of the poles) are completely dry before storing. Lubricate zips with a silicon lubricant suitable for use on fabrics.

Sand

Try to avoid getting sand in the tent. It’s pretty impossible if you’re near the beach, but do try! The abrasive grains will cause increased wear to zips, poles and fabric, so clean out any sand before putting the tent away. Remove sand from zips with a small, stiff brush – an old toothbrush is perfect.

Storing

You know that musty, old-sock smell of a towel that’s been damp for too long? If you put your tent away when damp, it quickly attains a similar fruity aroma, and then the fabric and performance will start to degrade.

In short, mould and mildew on your tent are not ideal… After every trip, hang your tent up (or pitch it – your call) in a warm, dry and preferably shady area until it is completely dry. Make sure all pegs and poles are dry and clean before storage.

It is best to store your tent loose in a cardboard box or mesh storage bag to increase air flow around the fabrics.