|MODEL||WEIGHT (G) *||PACKAGED WEIGHT (G)||FLY MATERIAL||FLOOR MATERIAL|
|Goondie 1 MESH – 7D||1255||1395||7D Nylon Sil/PU||75D POLYESTER PEU|
|Goondie 1 MESH – 30D||1465||1605||30D Polyester Sil/PU||75D POLYESTER PEU|
|Goondie 1 NYLON – 7D||1340||1510||7D Nylon Sil/PU||75D POLYESTER PEU|
|Goondie 1 NYLON – 30D||1550||1720||30D Polyester Sil/PU||75D POLYESTER PEU|
|Goondie 1 TUB – 7D|
(FAST AND LIGHT) #
|1040||1095||7D Nylon Sil/PU||70D POLYESTER PU|
|Goondie 1 TUB FOOTPRINT ^||300||315||70D POLYESTER PU|
* WEIGHT: FLY, INNER, POLES, 4 PEGS, ALL GUY ROPES
# FAST AND LIGHT: FLY, POLES, TUB FOOTPRINT AND FOUR PEGS
^ POLES NOT INCLUDED
There are two choices of flies for tents. Both options are finished with silicone and polyurethane coatings and fully seam sealed in the factory.
7 D: spiffy green flies made from ultralight, 7-denier nylon with 1200 mm of Sil/PU coating. Ideally suited to three-season bushwalking for the weight conscious.
30 D: made from a slightly heavier and more durable 30-denier polyester. With a 1500 mm sil/PU water head, these gorgeous orange numbers are not only easier to spot, they have higher UV resistance, making them better suited to four-season use.
There are also two inner options for most tents.
Nylon: the full, breathable nylon inner has DWR treatment for better insulation and protection from condensation. Suitable for year-round use.
Mesh: this inner is made mostly from mesh, allowing fantastic breathability and air flow. It is perfect for warmer, more humid conditions. (It is also a bit lighter than the nylon alternative.)
Floors and Tub Footprints
The floor used in our tent range is tough enough to stand up to life in the bush without needing a footprint underneath. Made from 75-denier, 5000 millimetre, PU-coated HT nylon, the bathtub construction is watertight, with high side walls to prevent splash back.
The optional Tub Footprint is made from the same 70 D Polyester PU, designed to be used with the fly for a light-and-fast setup.
All our poles are supplied by DAC, the industry leader. DAC Featherlite NSL poles are light, strong and reliable, made using a new environmentally friendly anodising process.
Our forged alloy pegs are made using the same method as rockclimbing hardware – perhaps a little overengineered? Despite their strength, they’re easy to push in. We supply ten, although they are freestanding tents that can be pitched with two. What else do you want?
Goondie tents are easy to pitch, as can be seen in this video.
When choosing a tent site, ideally find a position that is:
- protected from strong winds
- flat and level
- away from trees which may drop debris and limbs
- clear of any sharp rocks or debris that could damage the tent floor
- not in a low-lying area adjacent to a watercourse or where water may pool
- clear of overhead electrical cables: take care when assembling tent poles
Don’t be Luke Skywalker with his light sabre! Flicking the pole up to snap it all together is great fun, but it damages the shock cord and fractures the segments. Take time and put the segments together with care.
Keep sand and grit out of the pole segments. If they do get dirty, clean them out with water and let them dry thoroughly before storage.
Keep them fully open or fully shut, but don’t go merrily tripping in and out a half-open door. It’s a great way to bust an ankle, and a zip! Although we use high-quality parts, the teeth can still be damaged if a zip is stressed when only partially done up.
That harsh Australian sun…
All synthetic fabrics are degraded by the sun’s rays. Avoid leaving your tent in direct sunlight for extended periods of time.
First, give the fly and the inner of your tent a good shake: you’ll be amazed (and disgusted) at the bits and pieces you’ve been carrying around! Then use a soft-bristled brush to remove any excess dirt from the poles, pegs, inner and fly.
Run your bath with enough warm–hot water to cover your tent, dissolving in a natural, mild, non-detergent soap. (Depending on the size of your bath and tent, you may want to do the fly and inner separately.)
Soak your tent for some time, then brush it to remove any residual dirt. Rinse the tent until the water runs clear – it may take a while… If you really must use a washing machine, make sure it is front loading.
Wash the poles inside and out too, as well as the pegs. But the fun really starts once you’ve finished with the tent: it’s time to scrub the bath!
Once the tent is clean, hang it on the clothes line to dry. Drying time will depend on the weather: it may take several hours in summer, or a day or two in winter. Make sure all components (including the insides of the poles) are completely dry before storing. Lubricate zips with a silicon lubricant suitable for use on fabrics.
Try to avoid getting sand in the tent. It’s pretty impossible if you’re near the beach, but do try! The abrasive grains will cause increased wear to zips, poles and fabric, so clean out any sand before putting the tent away. Remove sand from zips with a small, stiff brush – an old toothbrush is perfect.
You know that musty, old-sock smell of a towel that’s been damp for too long? If you put your tent away when damp, it quickly attains a similar fruity aroma, and then the fabric and performance will start to degrade.
In short, mould and mildew on your tent are not ideal… After every trip, hang your tent up (or pitch it – your call) in a warm, dry and preferably shady area until it is completely dry. Make sure all pegs and poles are dry and clean before storage.
It is best to store your tent loose in a cardboard box or mesh storage bag to increase air flow around the fabrics.